238,900 miles. That’s the distance between here and the lunar satellite that controls our tides and has an American flag stuck in its side. It’s also a number that’s rapidly spinning up on the odometer of your author’s paid-off 2012 Dodge Charger.

It doesn’t have to be all your own mileage, either. We’ll allow vehicles you wantonly bought with 200k+ already on the clock as well.

Murilee has shown of plenty of high mileage vehicles in his junkyard series, from this recent Volvo DL with nearly 400k to a late-80s 190E with a stunning 601,173 miles. Your author has seen plenty of 1M+ mile long-haul tractor trailers at Ritchie Bros auctions, as I’m sure most of you lot reading this today have, as well.

But we’re talking about your own fleet. Few of my own machines have stayed in my possession past 200k, with the Rust Monster — fed by the notorious Canadian East Coast salt — claiming the lives of many cars long before they can join the double-century club. A buddy in high school had a non-turbo Plymouth Laser that crested 300k, but that thing was preserved by copious amounts of cigarette smoke.

175K on my 2006 Mazda Tribute (Ford Escape)bought new traded it in on my 2010 Ford Escape now with a 140K and still going strong. That’s why I’m such an Escape fan. If you take care of them they’ll be good to you

87 Dakota with 375,000~ and a 92 Infinti G20 with around 350,000~ and didn’t use a drip of oil between oil changes.

Eh, all commenters here in this post are losers. Successful people drive a new car not further than 20K miles and get the new one. Very successful people have a driver

Yeah, anything past 150k is SCARY and DANGEROUS. You want the comfort of a warranty (extended for good measure), for a low low lifetime payment.

Don’t forget your kids MUST have new to be SAFE. Never let your kids in anything older than three years. You are endangering their lives. And you are sparing them the hazard of breaking down every three weeks. MUST be NEW. /s

slavuta, losers put money in new cars every 20k miles, successful people put their money in investment and nice houses (the s is intended).

I think the important takeaway here is that people who don’t spend money on things you value are joyless Puritans, and that people who do spend money on things you don’t value are doomed profligate fools.

Yeah, I’ll have to remember that one whilst driving around in my ’08 F-150 with 212k miles on the clock on my way to drop off gift bags of wine and chocolates to my tenants. But I’ll probably forget all about it once I’m relaxing on the pool deck of my luxury, country club home overlooking the fairway while I smoke my cigar this afternoon.

gator, sure. I used to deliver pizza in a fairly rich suburban area where houses today cost 6-700K. Well, I did it after my main job, and mostly to help my family rather than make $$. I had some old car for that. Tips were great. People looked at my car and tipped well. Another guy drove 10 year old MB, he didn’t get same treatment. People don’t even understand that 10yo MB might be worth nothing but still, they saw the MB.

Thank you for your comment Slavuta. That was very helpful and we are all glad you contributed, in your small way, to the discussion. Your mother will be very proud of you.

Lie2me….. yeah I had a 2005 Escape 3.0L that I bought new in Spring of ’04. I sold to my neighbor in 2016 with 227,000 miles on it and I bought a new 2017 Escape that I now have 63,000 miles on. Escapes have been good to me.

I’m co-founder of Escape-City https://www.escape-city.com/index.php, come visit us sometime. Lots of Escape/Tribute/Mariner fans there sharing all sorts of useful tips and info :)

The care and attention shown by the owner/driver makes an amazing difference in the life of most vehicles.

Maximum odometer reading alone does not tell the whole story. Proposed metric(s): C = Total acquisition cost (yours) + total maintenance cost + total running costs D = Total value realized at (your) disposition M = Mileage accrued during your time with the vehicle Y = Elapsed years of your ‘ownership’

And then the geeky finance metric: (Current value of household fleet) as a % of (Household net worth)

1999 Ford F350 Super Duty w/7.3, 2-wd and mt: 269k miles. Sold to my son, still a daily driver at 271k miles. 1990 Chevrolet 1500 Cheyenne cab and a half short bed w/4.3, 2-wd and 5mt: 275k miles (still running some 4 or5 years ago at 350k miles). The diesel repairs were for brakes a few times, 2 glowplug relays, an alternator, 1 clutch at 100k, tires and oil changes. The Chevy had only an alternator replaced in addition to tires/brakes/oil changes. Also my wife’s 2011 Subaru Outback at 150k miles – only oil changes, one wheel bearing, and drain/fill times 2 of the CVT.

I have 119k on my ’10 Focus. If trends continue it should make it to 200k if I don’t get bored to death of it and tempted to buy something else. I must say it still looks good and is wearing well. My highest mileage car was my 83 Civic at 205k.

2003 GMC Sierra RCSB: My wifes father bought her the truck as a high school graduation present with 14 miles on it. We sadly traded it in for family vehicle at 175k. Six months later my father in-law suddenly died from cancer. My wife missed the truck. So I tracked down the new owner of the truck and bought it back – 183k.

My son has a 2004 Sierra crew cab. It was my company truck. I drove it from the dealership with 4 miles showing. It now has 325,000 miles on it. He put front brake pads on it for the first time just last week. The only other work done to the truck was rear brake pads and a water pump.

~211k miles on a 1987 Nissan Stanza. Was my dad’s car which he then gave to me when I was out of college. Replacements for me, other than tires, oil, plugs and wires, were a fuel pump and exhaust. Car hood flipped open on this on the highway. By this time it was a third car so I fixed the bent hood with a pair of boots(!), put it back on, and drove it with the hood bungeed down. Sold to someone who got a few more thousand miles out of it.

~220k miles on a 1998 Toyota T100 4×4 – rusty but trusty. Bought used for $1800 with 198k. Wire harness issue (caused my aftermarket trailer hitch) and a bad joint (coupler?) were the only things that went bad on it during my ownership. Sold it to a friend who had it for another three years, used as a winter-only car for his wife.

My co-worker just turned 341k miles on a 2004 Toyota Tundra – and this weekend hit a patch of black ice while in 2WD, lost control, went into the trees and totaled it. Truck was running just fine at ~300k when I last borrowed it.

Our 2000 Durango has 194k miles. Has been a good truck and the only real rust is a replacement fender after hitting a deer. The OEM sheet metal is all pretty good.

We hsd a Stratus with 167k miles. That may not seem like a lot, but it had the 2.7l V6. Traded it when it developed a rod knock.

Dad had a 1978 Dodge Maxi-van and it had over 360k mile son it. Valve covers leaked on it and it had the timing chain replaced at 80k miles or so just like every other Mopar with the plastic gears.

Easy – 218,000+ on the ’76 Vega GT (five-speed) that I daily drove from July, 1984, to July, 1995. I bought it at 93k, and the original owner had commuted daily in the thing 80+ miles a day for its first eight years, and told me he hadn’t done much but replace a couple of a ball joints and the control arm bushings.

I live in North Texas, so rust wasn’t an issue, and the thing leaked oil rather than burning it – the only engine work was replacing the timing belt and water pump a couple of times as a preventive measure (it’s a non-interference engine), and the other major issue was replacing the five-speed with a junkyard unit at 105k. Along the way I also converted it to power steering and a tilt column (the original manual gear wore out) with a column, gear, pump and brackets from the junkyard along with new hoses and a new drag link. It still had the original exhaust system on it when I sold it for $750 along with a bunch of NOS parts.

The Vega was replaced with the ’95 F-150 that I bought new and drove for 17 years and 214,000 miles. The only major unexpected issue with it was rebuilding the differential (and adding a Detroit Truetrac limited slip) at 101k, after listening to bad pinion bearings for about 10,000 miles (supposedly caused by too much preload when the axle was originally assembled by Ford’s parts supplier).

By 1976 the Vega was an improved vehicle. The aluminum engine got iron cylinder liners and the body integrity was better since they dipped the unibody more than once and included front fender liners. I knew people then who had Monzas and Vegas including a Monza wagon with the Buick 232 V6 5 speed who got well over 200k out of it. As usual with GM once they get it right they drop the product.

I thought they had simply updated the cooling system. I did NOT realize they put in iron cylinder liners.

Vegas *never* had iron cylinder liners from the factory – that’s a myth. Only aftermarket rebuilt short blocks were sleeved. The changes for ’76 included a redesigned cylinder head with hydraulic lifters, and improved oil drainback passages from the head. They were sure enough of the changes that they included a 5-year/60,000 mile warranty on the engines.

And yes, they made advances on rustproofing, including the use of zinc-plated steel in some areas like the lower radiator support and front fenders, and plastic and aluminum/wax sealers in corrosion-prone areas.

Yes I stand corrected. I remember some machine shops at the time installing iron cylinder liners. The improvements on what was known as the Dura-Built 140 also included improved coolant pathways. GM could have avoided a lot of headaches if they just used a Opel 1.8 or lopped two cylinders off of the Pontiac OHC-6

They also corrected the “air bubble” problem that prevented corrosion protection from reaching all the steel when the car was dipped…

Yes, that was one of the big rust problems – the air pocket in the tops of the front fenders when the bodies went through the ELPO dip. The problems could have been avoided had they just inspected the bodies of the pilot cars after the dip process. Of course adding fender liners helped, too.

You must have lived in a cool, dry climate, and be one of those meticulous owners who does everything perfectly.

Getting to 185k on an early Vega would be amazing. And yeah, you’d have to live in a place where rust wasn’t a problem.

The mechanical problems with Vegas were usually caused by allowing the car to overheat (a no-no with a Vega), and keeping up with oil changes. Mine leaked so much oil (a quart every 500-600 miles) that it was never black when I changed it every 3,000 – usually just brown, like a Hershey’s chocolate bar.

Also, all Vegas used an in-tank electric fuel pump, wired through the oil pressure sender, so if you lost oil pressure, the pump would shut off. Mine was usually slow to build oil pressure on the first start of the day, and the sender was bypassed when the ignition switch was in the Start position (cranking), so the car would start, and then die due to low oil pressure. The second start would do the trick.

The car only failed me twice in eleven years. Once when the fuel pump died, and another time years later, when the HEI ignition coil, mounted to the passenger side of the cylinder head cracked, and grounded the spark to the head.

I care for my cars, and, Colorado is dry and (relatively) cool, except when driving in snow. It did have a fairly healthy rust spot on the left side below the C pillar.

somewhere around 310,000 on an ’84 F-250 with the 6.9 liter diesel. Still needed some TLC to get there; those Stanadyne distributor injection pumps were only good for about 80,000 miles. Updated to the later 7.3 IDI integrated water/trap and filter, and man, cylinder taper on those engines was legendary. By 150-175,000 they were good to drink a quart of 15W-40 every 500-750 miles.

My wife used to drive a 1988 (I think) Mercedes 300E sedan, a company car hand-me-down. As she rolled into the 200K plus miles zone we decided to keep it until 250K before looking for a replacement.

I didn’t ride in it very often, so wasn’t paying much attention to the mileage, but at some point came to realize that the odometer had been stuck at some number in the 240s for, well, rather a long time. Many months, in fact. So I reckon it was well into the upper 200K reaches, but below 300K. Still ran well, and was sold as a runner to a guy who owned several of that model.

Replaced it with a nice, used 2003 BMW-5 series wagon, sadly now totaled by its subsequent owner’s daughter at around 130K miles.

I traded for a 1994 Honda Accord 5-speed (? peak Honda) which had 145,00k. I put another 50k on it and sold it to my brother with approximately 196,000. He drove it for another 2 years and put 45k on it and sold it to a friend. Last account the car was still bombing around Nashville with over 300k.

The 90’s may well go down as peak Honda/Toyota years. Tough and relatively simple drive trains, especially the 4cyl/5-speed combos. It will be interesting to see if the current offerings with various direct-injection, turbos, cvts hold up over the long haul/multiple owners. Time will tell.

Peak V6 automatic too. Keep the EGR tube clean and you will almost certainly get 300k or more miles out of a C32A/MPYA combination with fluid changes, timing belts, and maybe a valve cover gasket replacement. No glass 5-speed issues in the mid-’90s.

For my family, peak Honda has been the 2006/07 Accord, especially with the 3.0 V6. We owned a 94 and 97 Accord, but they just didn’t hold up as well to rust as the newer ones. We have had no issues with them and between all of our cars, they have been soldering beyond 200,000 miles on just maintenance such as timing belts. Something must have been changed between 2004/2005 to make the transmission reliable as I rarely ever hear of a failure.

345,000 miles on my 95 Ford Explorer before I gave it away. Still looked like a fairly new one, but the transmission was dying for the second time. I got it with 103,000 miles on it, and kept it 14 of it’s 20 years on the road.

My current driver has 230,000 miles on a 2004 Buick Rendezvous. my 77 Chevelle, I’ve put 150,000 miles on it in 10 years.

Geographically distant girlfriends, college, and work, plus a good love of road trips piles on the miles.

325,000 on a 1991 Jeep Cherokee with 4.0 liter engine. All original except for starter, alternator and water pump. Transmission untouched other than regular fluid changes.

Bought new in Dec. ’90 and sold it three years ago to my son’s friend. It’s still running, somewhere north of 350,000 miles.

I always thought the Liberty KJ replacement for the XJ Cherokee was lacking. They could have gotten a few more years out of the XJ with some upgrades like side impacts airbags and improved seats including a better rear seatback.

366000 KLM ( 227000 ) miles … 84 Caprice .. The 305 4bbl was tired , but still ran . The rust monster ate the doors , and the transmission was shaky. The dealer gave us $ 500 ..

Dividebytube – we have you beat on the 1987 Nissan Stanza. We almost got 300,000 miles on ours with nothing more than routine maintenance and wear and tear parts being replaced. It would have kept on going (and we wanted to see how much more we could get out of it) but someone ran a red and t-boned it.

We also had a 1990 Acura Integra that almost made it to 300,000 miles as well. Most expensive repair – a fuel pump. Otherwise it was tires, oil changes, and regular maintenance. It had a case of bad Honda rot by the rear fender, but was still going strong before it was replaced.

I bought my boss’s 1999 ford explorer XLT W/292,ooo KMs for the equivalent of three cases of Canadian premium beer. I gave it to a friend at the cottage. She rolled it up to 46o,ooo ish. She had to put a new used muffler on it @40 bucks, 2 sets of tires, 2 sets of brakes. It needed some engine work and deemed it was not worth it. Still not a spot of rust on it. She got 4x what she paid for it from the wrecker.

Highest-mileage car that my family ever had was 161k in a 1992 Olds Cutlass Cruiser wagon. Had several cancer spots, power windows that no longer worked, and it needed a new cat, so it was traded in for $500.

On ones I have personally owned my 87 Toyota pickup had around 225k I think when it ate a valve. Currently the Durango has around 190k, still driven every day but is starting to rust finally after being remarkably rust free until a few years ago. So likley to leave soon. Lots of my cars leave me between 150-200k, thru a combination of boredom and repairs. My father has owned several cars close to the 250k mark, a Nissan Pulsar, a 2nd gen Maxima, A CRX Si. Funny the Honda and the Pulsar were only taken out by accidents. The maxima was rust related when the front control arm left its mount.

1998 Protege 0-195K (sold) 1988 240sx 88-187K (engine issue) 1990 Civic 2dr hatch 98-167K (crashed) 2010 Mazda3 75K-150K (soldiering on)

As you see, I’ve only got somewhat close to 200K. My Highlander was promising to get me there but that was not an option after only 131K

But I think, it is also important the type of driving and duration. For example, you can put 150K on your car in 5 years relatively trouble-free. Cycles kill cars. So, if you have 50K miles in 10 years, it means your car went through many cycles of heat-cool. If you engine is on and working and you drive on highway with little stop/go, this is completely different use of the car.

I put 250,000 miles on a 1989 BMW 325i 5-speed. Then I sold it for a song, still running & driving fine but starting to rust in all the usual E30 places, to an old friend who needed transportation. The E30 turned out to be a better car in most respects than the E36 I replaced it with.

At 183K lost #3 exhaust valve tip which led to a top end rebuild. At 193k rebuilt transmission with upgraded components, replaced universal joints and drive line center bearings. Total cost $6k including spark plugs, wires, two fuel injectors, both exhaust manifolds. Still on original brake pads.

Steel Shift valving instead of alloy. New clutch pack although only fifth and sixth plated were worn. Flat piston drum verses stock with a rubber V ring. This ring smooths engaging #6 clutch plate but wears the outer area of # 6 plate. Slightly larger oil pump, updated programming. Thicker metal for rebuilt torque converter, brazed vanes. 25k on the rebuild and performing like new.

First question the shop asked was how did I get 193k pulling 10k and full payload. Answer. Five quart fluid changes every other engine oil change along with standard Schedule transmission filter changes.

275,000 mi and counting on a ’01 V70 T5 manual. I bought it with 217k on it a little under 2 years ago, and plan on driving it until at least 317k. Timing belt/water pump, suspension work, and (just this last weekend) two alternators, but it’s been a fantastic car and relatively reliable.

214,000 and counting on a ’04 Honda Element FWD manual. It’s been dead reliable, except for right side front struts and the gasket between the exhaust manifold and exhaust pipe. Seems to eat those things like crazy.

Thing is, I am so fastidious with maintenance, that my cars run perfectly when I get tired of them–usually after 4-5 years and 120k miles. Whoever buys my car ends up with a super good car that looks (except for the driver seat which always shows wear first) and runs like new.

That’s my problem – longest I’ve ever owned a vehicle was a 1997 Mountaineer. 5 years. By year 5 I couldn’t stand to look or drive the thing. Not because of any wear ‘n’ tear or reliability, just boredom.

My wife appreciates that I only get tired of my car–not her. Next time you want to trade for a new car, and wife objects, drop that one on her…..

This is a new one to me R Henry, where some men might look for a little side action when life gets dull, you buy a new car instead

The key to a long and happy marriage, but what does SHE get when feeling a little bored and restless? This? https://www.sukilux.com/products/hermes-birkin-30cm-matte-alligator-89-noir-palladium-hardware?variant=13539633350&currency=USD&gclid=Cj0KCQiA89zvBRDoARIsAOIePbA9y-h_IJxnNSDpPp-RyzuZECdvw7Lk7074Leu3zn6YkF4FVYzHr60aAqU9EALw_wcB

Nothing crazy. 2005 Audi A4 3.1 liter. Second owner, sold it with 141k. In the end, it had developed the dreaded “dipped headlight” warning – those xenons were as expensive to fix as awesomely illuminating – but other than that, it was a sparkling silver clean car that got compliments and pulled hard at redline. Still miss it to this day and half-regret selling it.

230k on my ’92 Bonneville SSEi. Bought it with 201k. Interior was ragged out but the engine, supercharger, and trans was fine.

144k on a 1986 VW GTI, bought new at end of 1986, sold 13 years later, for $2,900. It was in very good shape, everything worked except no cold A/C. Not a big deal in Michigan.

My first new car–and my favorite car. It was quite reliable, though once it hit 96k, and had its first ‘serious repair’ (radiator needed replace), at that point, every 10-15k miles or so (every year or other year), it needed something…Heater resistor, water pump, shift linkage.

Before that, the mirror would fall off and need reglue, the back-up light switch failed, and….you can’t make this up, the clutch PEDAL broke at 55k (but I removed it, got a ride to a welder, who welded it back for $10…)

I really regretted selling it, and accepted I would never find another one, but a year later, I did! I found another 86 GTI, with half the miles on it. Car had not led a pampered life (cracked windshield, K-mart muffler and tires, spotty records), but it was not modified, the seats were not torn (it was a 14 year old car), it drove well, and had very little rust, so I got it, cleaned it up, put about $1500 into repairs, fixed the windshield, then the tires, then finally the muffler, and still have it as a toy car, now has 105k. So I’ve owned it 19 years, longest car ever. Basically, I’ve had a VW GTI my whole adult life. Every 2 years, it needs something (water pump ,shift linkage, idle speed stabilizer, shocks, brakes, CV boot), but it drives as close to a new 85-87 GTI as possible three decades later, and looks great from 10 feet away.

367,000 miles on my son’s 1992 Camry, which was a bargain deal from my father-in-law. He bought it new and used it to commute to work before he retired, and it also made several cross-country trips. The motor and trans are still strong and it runs great, but there are some age-related issues. The undercarriage is pretty rusty (in Chicago it’s whole life) but it’s still jackable. Numerous plastic tabs and stuff are disintegrating, especially under the hood and the interior. And every time I try to remove a bolt or screw, it breaks- even before I apply torque to it. But the interior looks great- no cracks, no rips in seats, thank you Lexus ES development money. After my son is done with it, I will buy it from him. I would love to get this thing to 500k someday.

238,000 on a 2006 Chevy Monte Carlo with a 3500. Was a car that you needed to know all of its fail points to trust and what idiot lights to ignore. Had 35K when I bought it for commuting. Lost it to an uninsured dodge that side swiped it. I could have bought it back from the insurance company real cheap but no, take the $$ and run.

The Trooper is at 240k but semi-retired so doesn’t get a lot of action. It’s got a GM glass jaw transmission. My ’88 Nissan SE-V6 King Cab got to 230k before I sold it. My Outback is at 145k (current driver). The Saab 9-3 Aero convertible is at 52k but is a garage queen.

I owned a 1970 Mustang that made it to 220k. I did a short block rebuild at 80k because a piston skirt cracked. This was in the late 70’s early 80’s when vehicles particularly American ones over 150k were a rarity. Most other cars I owned made it to over 150k including a 1980 Oldsmobile Toronado diesel with a Mr. Good wrench warranty replacement short block.

I was excited for a minute as I read this one and the “click to see all the comments” was not here and it looked like it had in the past. Then I re-visited and it is back. Crap.

Not my car, but I think it warrants a mention none-the-less. Back when I was searching for a new new daily driver, I saw a relatively rare 1997-98′ Oldsmobile 88 Regency (short lived replacement for the classic 98 Regency)in a driveway with a ‘for sale by owner’ sign on the dash. I pulled over and knocked on the door- Usual case, the owner had passed on and their spouse was selling the vehicle.

That thing had 484,000 KM’s or just a tick over 300,000 miles. I’d never seen that kind of mileage on anything other than a Toyota Tercel before. It started, idled, and ran fine, and a short test drive around the block indicated no issues whatsoever. Other than the usual nicks and scratches the paint was fine and the trunk yielded a thick binder of repair and maintenance receipts. I just couldn’t bring myself to put an offer in. At that point, it was more than a novelty than anything else.

The car my family has racked in the most miles is that old 2003 Toyota Land Cruiser we used to own. My parents bought it brand new in 2002 and it survived 14 long years and 310K miles in a rust belt state before it required too much money to keep it roadworthy. We ended up donating it to charity and I received my grandfathers old car a 2004 Toyota Highlander Limited.

I doubt my current dd, will last as many miles as that Land Cruiser did. Its at 173,000 miles now and parts are starting to break left and right. I estimate it should last 2 more years before it reaches the end of its life?

117k on my current ride, the 328i wagon. My 10 year old daughter claims she wants the car when she’s old enough and I’ve told her I’d teach her how to drive the car’s manual trans. when she’s tall enough.

I’ve been tempted to replace it a few times as I’ve had it nearly 10 years, but it’s still a fun car. I’ll probably see 140k miles on it before it either is handed off to her or is sold.

It’s good when you buy something you really like. It makes it harder to just throw it away when you get to enjoy all the driving fun it offers. Especially when contemplating a monthly payment.

Kinda felt the same way about the only new car I ever purchased – ’94 Altima, built when Nissan stuff was still good quality.

99,700 miles on my 328i wagon, but only 7 years old. Every imaginable option, though sadly not the manual (did not buy it new). Best car I’ve ever had.

Many years ago, a late 80s Silverado stepside with 286k; more recently a 98 LS400 with 276k and a 2012 Camry XLE with 268k. They all looked pretty much like new, inside and out.

Oh I know but those numbers just look huge to other people seeing the odo, people who don’t know the cars. 160k on SC400 and 143k on LS430 Ultra are not even worth mentioning :)

Highest-mileage car I’ve ever owned is my ’95 Legend, but I didn’t add most of the miles. Bought at 185k, now at 201k four years later. Runs and looks great. I’ve dumped a lot of money into replacing rubber parts and it should be good to go for quite a while.

The most miles I’ve ever put on a car was on the least reliable car I’ve ever owned. I bought my ’89 SHO at 68k in 1997 (at which point it was already kind of a POS), and took it all the way to 160k by the time I traded it for $500 off my Acura TSX in 2003. Since then, the most miles I’ve ever put on a car before selling it was on my G8 GXP, which I took from new to 39k before selling it.

My personal best was 186,xxx on the 1998 neon. Would’ve gone further, but dad barked about the timing belt change/service– so I backed-down and the inevitable happened. Dad chose a back-alley mechanic, and again– I backed-down. Crackhead ruined the whole car and it ran poorly after the engine replacement.

I had a 1988 Ford Bronco II (in the family since new) with 239,000 miles on it. Even had the original clutch when I sold it. The way I’ve heard it put on these BII’s is that if yours made it to 100k miles without blowing a head gasket, you got a good one and it will never die. Still see it driving around town.

Currently fleet consists of: 2011 Toyota Sienna (4cyl) @ 125k miles 2014 Toyota Prius @ 167k miles 2004 Toyota Land Cruiser @ 164k miles

I had 309,000 on my 87 Dodge Ram 50 with the 2.0L when I donated it to charity. I bought it from my stepfather when it “only” had 170,000 miles on it.

I bought an ’88 Volvo 240 wagon once for $300 that may have had close to a half million miles. The odometer stopped at 299k and the person I bought it from told me it wasn’t working when she bought it around 5 years earlier. She was a grad student who drove it regularly to visit her family in South Florida from Gainesville. I owned it for over 3 years and daily drove it to work 20 miles away. I eventually sold it for 3x more than I paid for it as it still ran like a champ.

My ’08 F-150 runs and drives perfect with 212k on the clock. I have zero plans to replace it anytime soon.

I bit the bullet a few years back, buying my wife a ’15 Highlander that’s now our main family vehicle only because I wanted the latest safety equipment. I’m sure I’ll eventually take it over and drive it (hopefully) well past 200k miles.

Currently have 216k miles on my daily driver 2010 Mazda 3 Sport 2.5i 5 speed automatic Grand Touring sedan. I’m the 3rd owner and the car was well maintained. Got it with 198k miles on July 3rd 2018. Love the little bugger. Probably going to get a Mazda 6 or a Ford Fusion when I get my next car.

I have had my 1987 Supra since I got brand new almost to the day today with about 205,000 miles and still going strong. Still has original paint. In good shape.

My excellent 1989 Honda Civic DX sedan had passed 248,000 miles when I sold it for a token sum to a friend in 2010.

That 1989 Honda Civic was a great car – lively, ergonomically well-thought-out, great to see out of – and *reliable*

About 250k miles on a 1993 325is 5-spd, the inline 6 still pulled great to redline and sold it to someone who was going to turn it in a track car.

473K on a 1986 MR2. Blown head gasket, corroded freeze plugs, and the tranny was just about shot. Parts car replacement only lasted 60K miles (two head gaskets, then connecting rod bearings), and I gave it to the mechanic who had kept it going.

Personal: 1970 Vega 185,000 1982 Citation 205,000 Friends: 1958 Beetle, around 250,000 This, back when a car hitting 100K was an accomplishment. 1973 Mercedes E class 352,000 and still counting. ~2007 Silverado 360,000+ and still counting.

those are some remarkable numbers! Vega! Citation! And the Beetle! I’m not sure what is more incredible–that is lasted 250k, or that you/family spent 250k miles (at 20 mph average, that is 12,500 hours…) in a Bug…

The car with the most mileage (I know of) I’ve ridden in was late 1960s Opel Rekord station wagon in Greece. Friend of my dads, he said it had ‘turned over’ 5-6 times. 550k km in a 17yr old car.

In Greece, cars lasted (and can last) a long time. Through the 1990s, when visiting Greece, it looked like every 4-cylinder car EVER sold there since 1960 was still on the road. WHen you bought a car, you got new plates, and they stay with the car, so one could spot cars that were still titled to people who had bought them before 1974, or 1974-1980 (plate designs changed).

In the 1990s, the Greek govt gave incentives to remove old, non-emissions control cars from circulation, so by the mid 2000s, most of the 1960-1980 cars were gone.

The Beetle was a friend’s. I remember we did a trip from Denver to Boulder. It slowed to 50 or so on the uphill grades, but it returned (astonishing to me at that time) 35mpg. 70-75 was pretty much too speed.

Hm. Ran a 1989 Riviera up to 205K by 1998. Still ran like a new car but body and electrical were getting a little tired. Still got $1200 for it in trade.

In 2011 I bought a 2009 Ford Taurus (the one that looks like a 500) with 77K, drove it for 100K miles, gave it to my daughter and it’s running fine with 197K on it now. Next child still has to learn to drive in it before it’s allowed to retire.

342,000 on a BMW 330i. Car needed a clutch (orig disc), but died of rust/plastic rot, my indy said he was afraid to put in on the lift-a full clutch and driveshaft wasn’t worth it, even without the rot. The engine was still clean inside, Mobil 1 or Amsoil every 8k.

212,000 and running on Acura MDX. Just did second valve belt service and valve adjustment. I change fluids as instructed by the computer. Perfect beater, dents, scratches, but mechanically very sound…the “take to the City” or “two feet of snow” or “up to Vermont” car.

The Acura burns a half quart between changes, the BMW needed a quart every 1500-2000, only issue. Power accessories were good for 120-150k so I was on second PS pump, second alternator, fourth expansion tank (they finally fixed that though) . Manual trans, synthetic every 100k for trans and diff (you could still change the oil back then).

In order: 1984 Shelby Charger (non turbo): bought with 18K, sold with 406,857 It was driven away by the buyer to greener pastures in IL.

1995 Ford Escort wagon: bought 174K, sold to local u-pull 276K. Rear strut mounts had rusted away making it dangerous to drive.

1972 Dodge Charger (318): bought with 20K?, traded in at 274K. Engine needed overhaul and decided to get something newer. Actually saw the car around my area for the next 3 years. Only change from when I owned it was a missing front bumper. Owner told me he had to miss a pedestrian and slammed into a telephone pole.

1998 Dodge Stratus: bought with 24K, traded in at 263K. Same fate as the ’84 – beginning to be unsafe due to rust along with the heater/ac was becoming erratic along with the front end damage due to deer strike (first in my life in 2016) left it with poorly aimed headlights.

Ran Penzoil in the ’72, switched to Castrol for the ’84 which I’ve used since. Oil changes 2K through to the Stratus when I changed to 3K. Filter every time and Tufoil since the ’72. Wanted to get the Shelby to 500K but the overall structural integrity – or the lack thereof due to rust – prevented that from happening. Currently have a 2013 Charger which I bought used in Sept. with 76K – currently at 81K – which will most likely be my last car before I pass (no pun intended) if all goes well.

My complete car history 1979 to 2019 1978 MGB 1.8L IL4, 4MT 45,000 to 65,000 waiting to restore 1977 Ford Van 300IL6, 3MT 100.000 – 250,000 miles (my father bought new) RUST 1987 Merkur XR4Ti, 5MT 70,000 to 280,000 RUST 1990 Mustang 302V8, 5MT 60,000 to 145,000 RUST – Cash for Clunkers 2000 Lincoln LS V6, 5MT 34,000 to 190,000 RUST 2009 Ford Ranger 2.3 IL4, 5MT 0 to 70,000 still going 2004 Jaguar XJ8 6A, 60,000 to 90,000 still going 2007 Chevy Corvette 6.2L, 6MT 149,000 to 153,000 still going

I owned a 1987 Ford Transit van with some 500-600 thousand km (375k miles) on the clock in 05-07. It had only a five-digit odo, but the previous owners had kept a pretty good tally of the mileage.

Rust finally killed the van, but it had a post-mortem life on a construction site until finally meeting the crusher.

My current car, a 2011 Kia, has only about 110.000 miles on the clock, but it’s already falling apart.

I had 235,000 on a 99 Isuzu Trooper with the 3.5L but it used as much oil as gas. I only put about 80k of that on it though.

I’ve got 255K on my 2004 Mercury Sable wagon, and we put 237K miles on a 1998 Camry. The Sable is leaving us since it was replaced by an Alltrack.

Back when I was a road warrior, putting miles on large, comfortable European sedans, I’ve had several go well into 200k+ territory. The highest I’ve owned:

1989 Volvo 745 – 346k miles (bullet-proof engine – the old red-block four) 1991 M-B 560SEL – 366k miles (without a doubt, the best-engineered car I’ve ever owned – and what a road cruiser)

I’m in Europe, so the Audi A2 1.2tdi economy model might not be too familiar. 1.2L inline-3 diesel, 61hp, automated manual gearbox which has been converted to fully manual. Bought it in May with 463k km (289k miles), currently it’s at 479k km (299k miles), all with an actual real world 74mpg.

1988 K car, 253,000 miles before the head gasket blew and I was fortunate enough for my parents to give me one of their cars instead of fixing it. This car never broke, other than MAP sensors. I kept spares in the car. I never hesitated to take this on long road trips to the slopes even will into 200K miles.

I really don’t drive that much, making it a point to live close to where I work. My household of 2 people splits mileage between 3 vehicles too, so that isn’t a recipe for high mileage.

Still, I did buy a ’96 Mercury Grand Marquis with 73k on the clock and took it up to around 200k a little over 10 years later. The odometer stopped working reliably north of 175k, so that 200 is an estimate but I feel like she was close. I’ll probably never have another vehicle that high again, except for perhaps our F150 and only because we plan on keeping it forever. Only up to 56k, 5.5 years after buying new.

One of my Mercedes, the 1984 300CD Diesel Coupe is past 478,000, runs well, everyone tells me it looks nice, I know every scratch and ding in the original paint so I think it’s embarrassing .

1982 240D Sedan 377,000 + miles, also mostly original, it looks O.K., both are sterling daily drivers, long distance drivers and fun roar rally cars .

MIL 2007 Ford Taurus 245,000 miles. Intensive maintenance Dad 2003 Honda Accord V6 288,000 miles Me 2007 Honda Accord manual 210,000

I don’t think a lot of people realize that 210k miles is actually low mileage if well taken cared of.

The vehicle with the most miles that I’ve ever owned was a 1998 Blazer that was well used when I bought it and had 217k mile at acquisition and was sold a year and a half later with 234k. It was a secondary vehicle and it just got too tiresome to remember to drive it occasionally, and it was annoying to be the person who was asked to lend it out.

I had a “friend” who asked to borrow it for a week while he figured out what he was going to do with his truck that had broken down somehow. Since, it was my second vehicle, and it was no skin off my hide to allow him to borrow it for a week, I allowed it. Called him a week later and he asked for a quick extension. This went on longer than I should have allowed, 3 months, until finally I demanded the keys back. He got salty and said it “wasn’t part of the deal”. In that 3 months he got a parking ticket that he didn’t tell me about and beat the crap out of it.

A couple months later, I traded it and my primary car on an Escape. Wasn’t playing that game again.

1995 Q45 215,000 miles never any issues, a mechanic friend bought it. 2003 Q45 225,000 miles it used a quart of oil every 1500 miles other than that no issues. My wife hit a rock and damaged the power steering rack and exhaust manifold. The car wasnt worth fixing.

Current 2004 Nissan Titan bought new, 160,000 miles replaced one window motor and one radiator, still tight and uses no oil.

3304 Engine Pump

2011 BMW X5-35d 170,000 miles, no major repairs except for a delete and tune done at 160,000 miles. Currently makes 400 hp and 600 lb ft, uses no oil and has no rattles. It is the perfect vehicle for living at 6500 feet in rural Colorado.

1995 Mercedes E300 Diesel, the legendary W124. OM606 non-turbo 24v inline 6. 498K miles, totaled in a street flood in Chicago in 2007. It required only routine maintenance, fluids, shocks, and suspension bushings. Not a single warranty claim, nor a single breakdown.

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